Winter City: Kiruna, Sweden

by Carrie Pålsson

When Swedes found two mountains of iron slightly above the Arctic Circle, the native Sami reindeer herders laughed and said no town could ever exist in such a spot. Cold winter winds and deep snow claimed the area for eight months of the year, leaving it to hordes of mosquitos for the other four months.

The Swedes didn't listen. Over 100 years ago, they set about building a "model society" in the harsh climate that even the strongest of Sami shunned. They named the city Kiruna, after a type of grouse found in the area, and began taming the elements with clever architecture and a "modern" tram system.

Money talks and Kiruna was ripe with money-making oppurtunities. Hungry iron miners poured into the area, eager to help construct the new Marxist society.

Today the city is growing old around the edges. The modern architecture of a hundred years ago still stands firm, but it isn't quaint. It's utilitarian and meant to keep the cold out and the warm in. Buses replaced the tram system and the miners are finding themselves obselete with the introduction of new automated technology. However, this doesn't stop the people of Kiruna from selling their city for all it's worth.

People travel from all over the globe to spend a night in the world famous Ice Hotel. Every year enterprising residents build a giant igloo and hire the best sculptors in the world to carve blocks of ice into stunning creations that furnish the hotel and people flock to it. For the adventure-minded, what can be better than spending the night on a bed of ice and reindeer hides?

Want to see Rudolph? Take a drive on a country lane and you're almost guaranteed to see a reindeer; however, no glowing noses have been reported. If you have the money, you can even spend a few days with reindeer herders and learn to wrangle Santa's helpers.

Dogsledding is another popular activity among both tourists and residents. If you've got the time, you can get anywhere you need to go with a good sled and a team of happy dogs. Or you can ski, skate or snowmobile to your favorite winter location.

Of course, you'll have to take along some flashlights. In December the sun never rises. It's not as gloomy as you might expect, thanks to reflections from the sun, but it's still rather dreary. The saving grace is Christmas. The residents string white fairy lights all over town and almost every window has a traditional Christmas candelabra sending its glowing light into the darkness. Kiruna in the summer is just as spectacular. The weather is mild enough to attract hordes of backpackers from all over the world. The local hostels, catering to people of all ages, are fully booked all summer. Tourists come to hike the tallest mountain in Sweden, Kebnekaise, which is 2,117 meters above sea level, and lies just an hour's drive southwest of the city. While in town, many take the opportunity to travel into the depths of the mine and learn how iron shaped the city. Horse lovers ride Icelandic ponies over the cool summer landscape and gawk at the explosion of color. All the snow from the winter leaves the soil in prime condition for wild flowers.

A new industry has replaced mining - aerospace. The Swedish Space Cooperation operates in the outlying area, employing a vast work force. Those with aerospace aspirations usually start at the space university in the town. But what is it like to live in the town day in and day out? That's the question everyone always asks me, a transplanted American who speaks minimal Swedish. The answer? It's tough. That's the only way to explain it. Parts of Kiruna are amazing. Walking down the street at 3 a.m. on a July morning, yet having the sun shine as bright as noon is just plain neat, even if it does shake up one's sleeping patterns. The awe-inspiring Northern Lights dance across the sky all winter. The winters are cold but not unbearable if you know how to dress right. The people are fairly nice and usually patient with those who don't speak their language.

But it's still tough. The nearest big city is a four hour drive on a good day, and most days are not "good." Shopping is limited, fast food is nearly non-existent - unless you like hot dogs with mashed potatoes or potato balls filled with reindeer blood pudding - and prices are outrageous. Still, I wouldn't trade my two years in Kiruna for anything. My perception of the world has been turned upside down and I think that's a good thing, any way you slice it.

All in all Kiruna is a unique and exciting place to visit. Staying permanently? Well, that's another story.